Bus #68

I'm just wrapping up a two-week visit from my mom and grandmother. We spent three days in Bangkok checking out the major touristy temple attractions and then moved on to Chiang Mai, northern Thailand, for five days. Chiang Mai is a major shopping area with hilltribe handicrafts, jade, and ceramics, and silks. There was a huge bustling night bazaar within walking distance of our hotel and we had fun looking for buys and treasures. The highlight of the trip for me was a one-hour Longtail boat ride up the Mae Kok River to a Karen hilltribe village. The longtail boats are common on Thai waterways and are propelled by a diesel engine mounted on a long shaft that is swiveled for steering. The Karen are the largest hill-tribe group in Thailand and come from Burma and China. It wasn't particularly fun to be greeted by swarms of kids hawking cheap bracelets and weaving, and this village even made money charging 10 baht for the bathroom, but from there we left on a two hour elephant trek. Rode through lush green hillsides with misty mountains in the background and bright green squares of rice fields. I did a poor job of timing my photos between jarring jerks of the walking elephant. Mom and I rode together in a basket on the back of our elephant, while our "driver" sat on the elephant's head and nudged his ears to direct him. Our elephant, 34 yr. old Poo Wong, stopped often to grab and munch bamboo and sometimes the stops provided good photo ops. Also made it up to the golden triangle, where the Mae Kok River flows through the borders of three countries: Thailand, Laos, and Burma. Basically a scenic outlook. 

Even my return bus trip back to the nearest town to the sanctuary turned out to be more of an adventure than expected. Today was my first time going FROM Bangkok to Chum Phae and my first time traveling on the bus alone. I arrived at the bus station at 10, an hour wait. I had no idea of boarding procedure, but remembered that the lady who sold me my ticket said something about #68. I sat down in the terminal to take in the surroundings. I was overcome with a sheer sense of being assaulted by sensory overload. 100 or more back-lit numbered booths surrounded the interior. I saw lists of 100% Thai script as my eyes scanned looking for any English. Quickly I zeroed in on the word "Information," but of course the booth was not occupied. I didn't hear any announcements, but in most airports or bus stations it is a struggle to hear and try listening for a departure in Thai. At 10:30pm the T.V.'s shut off and people were sleeping in the chairs. I got a bit nervous because no one seemed to have any luggage. Phones were ringing and booth attendants sat looking bored. I sat planning my next move. I frequently glanced at window #68, but it remained dark with no attendant. What to do? Spotted a sign for departure platforms and I lugged my backpack up and on to investigate. It appeared to be a huge field of parked buses outside. I didn't even know what type of bus I was looking for. I figured I had my number, 68, and maybe it was the bus platform not another ticket window, so at quarter to 11 (departure time of 11) I decided to wander to the buses. Previously, on the way to Bangkok when we looked for our bus 10 min. before departure they told us we were much too early. So, I figured 15min. was plenty of time. I found a pillar with #68, things were looking promising at that point, until the lady looked at my ticket and said, "rot bpai leeo." That Thai I understood: "the bus already left." What the heck?! I thought the departure wasn't until 11, but I didn't know how to say all that in Thai and just looked up at the lady all concerned. She did some talking into her radio and then pointed to a nearby bus. All I could do was board. I felt slightly better when I saw the same bird symbol on the window that was on my ticket...it was a non-air con and I had no idea where it was headed, but I guess I put my faith into the hands of the girl with the radio. 

Turns out that the bus wasn't going to Chum Phae (my destination of choice). Two hours into the trip we pulled into rest stop next to another bus of the same company and they tapped me on the shoulder and ushered me to a second bus (all without saying a word). Ok, so they got me on the right bus going to Chum Phae (I hoped). I tried to sleep, but halfway through the night our bus stalled, sounded like we were stuck in the ditch, or had a flat tire, or overheated engine. It took a good 2 hrs. before we were moving again. Reached Chum Phae after 9 and 1/2 hrs. I was so tired I didn't even recognize the bus station and wasn't sure it was my stop because no one else was getting off, but at that point I didn't care and just wanted off the bus. I immediately bought water and the Internet cafe opened at 9. I've been sitting at a computer ever since. I hope to get a bus from here to Loei Lai at 2:30 and from there Eileen will hopefully be picking me up at 4 to head to the sanctuary. What a day!