Pig Head Offering
Chewing on springy bits of cartilage from a pig snout and downing shots of 80 proof LaowKaow for the sake of a Thai good luck ceremony doesn't make either go down any easier. Today a group of 45 plus people congregated at the sanctuary shrine hidden in a cluster of trees in the back field. Since moving into our new house we have had minor incidents of bad luck: a leaky roof, a tree falling on the truck, restless nights, deer in our office, etc. We were advised to make an offering to appease what was described as a "forest spirit" of types. A pig head offering. No, luckily this didn't require a sacrifice, but a pre-cooked head. It is not an actual Buddhism belief, but the people incorporate animism or the idea of "spirits" into their rationalizations of luck and are quite serious about offerings. Women brought plates of sweets, fruits, sticky rice, pretzels, chicken, noodle dishes, peanuts, liquor, and cigarettes to spread out below the shrine (which looks like a glorified bird house with miniature people placed inside and plastic flowers hung on the corners). Incense sticks were lit and placed in each dish and stuck in the pig head -- yes, it was literally an entire head on a silver platter. Even the cigarettes were lit for the spirit. Once everyone was settled a gentleman led us in a short "prayer" of thanks and we waited the appropriate duration for the "spirit" to have his fill of the offerings. Eventually, when they have decided enough time has passed, everyone shares in eating the leftovers. To participate I consumed my share of pig and alcohol (this was at seven in the morning!) and the rangers were impressed because they know I am strictly a Coca-Cola girl at the parties. The entire ceremony lasted a bit over an hour and had an informal but solemn feel. I'll let you know if our luck changes...
Sambar Surprise
Apparently Sambar deer can jump -- through windows! Before leaving for a week in Bangkok I put many things in the laundry to be washed, so everything would have a week to dry and be fresh when we got back. Clothes, sheets, my blanket, blanket cover. At the last minute I decided to throw in my sleeping bag thinking maybe our cleaning ladies could help alleviate the horrible mildew smell. Our clean dry laundry is folded and piled in the office for us to pick up. The night before we arrived our resident Sambar deer got into the room through an open window. The doors were closed and she went frantic crazy because she couldn't escape. Peed everywhere: the walls, on our magazines, books, and of course, the pile of clean clothes. Guess what was on top of the pile? My sleeping bag. Wonderful. Just a little wrinkle. See, we never get too bored here.
Today Amy (a grad. student from Stony Brook who is checking out the field site for two months as a possible site for her dissertation work) and I worked a morning shift of searching for group PS from 5:30 until noon. I like the eight langurs of the group PS. I watched their transition from being completely skittish in February to now coming within a few meters of us. The infant which was born about three months ago used to be watched closely and hidden by his mother. Now, he is bigger, turned all gray from his previous blaze orange, and she allows him to play wide open for us to see. I think I was the first person to spend a full-day following the group. I know I was first to draw a complete description for all of the individuals. We found them early this morning because the adult male was nice enough to double bark, signaling the group location.
Well, even though I tried to make funny faces through my rendition of "If You're Happy and You Know It Clap Your Hands," I don't think the class will be requesting that song again any time soon. I can't sing. I did try, but that just got me a few odd looks. Unfortunately, I'm sure the entire sanctuary heard me as well since our lessons tend to get boisterous. I had a terrific class tonight of 12 students (despite them coming a full HOUR before the planned time). They were attentive and eager throughout (maybe because we haven't had class for almost two weeks, or maybe because they are getting used to only me as teacher). We went through my prepared cards for learning, "I, you, he, she, they, we" much quicker than I expected. They liked the repetition and tongue-twistedness of my pictures depicting a girl and a woman: the girl saying, "I am a girl. You are a woman;" the woman saying, "I am a woman. You are a girl." The words seemed familiar to all of them but I think it was good -- gave them confidence that they have learned English at school. They even sat through learning a few shapes. They like to repeat words "con diao" (individually when we go around in a circle). After we got though my planned lesson we still had a half hour left. We filled it by singing songs -- everything we have taught them so far (they now love the hokey pokey) and they taught me a song with the days of the week and something about a large elephant and a small chicken. Then I was thinking, um...now what? Ok, "wat pop" (draw a picture). Today was letter "L" for lion. A success. Now, if only I could learn the Thai equivalent of everything I teach them...
Today Amy (a grad. student from Stony Brook who is checking out the field site for two months as a possible site for her dissertation work) and I worked a morning shift of searching for group PS from 5:30 until noon. I like the eight langurs of the group PS. I watched their transition from being completely skittish in February to now coming within a few meters of us. The infant which was born about three months ago used to be watched closely and hidden by his mother. Now, he is bigger, turned all gray from his previous blaze orange, and she allows him to play wide open for us to see. I think I was the first person to spend a full-day following the group. I know I was first to draw a complete description for all of the individuals. We found them early this morning because the adult male was nice enough to double bark, signaling the group location.
Well, even though I tried to make funny faces through my rendition of "If You're Happy and You Know It Clap Your Hands," I don't think the class will be requesting that song again any time soon. I can't sing. I did try, but that just got me a few odd looks. Unfortunately, I'm sure the entire sanctuary heard me as well since our lessons tend to get boisterous. I had a terrific class tonight of 12 students (despite them coming a full HOUR before the planned time). They were attentive and eager throughout (maybe because we haven't had class for almost two weeks, or maybe because they are getting used to only me as teacher). We went through my prepared cards for learning, "I, you, he, she, they, we" much quicker than I expected. They liked the repetition and tongue-twistedness of my pictures depicting a girl and a woman: the girl saying, "I am a girl. You are a woman;" the woman saying, "I am a woman. You are a girl." The words seemed familiar to all of them but I think it was good -- gave them confidence that they have learned English at school. They even sat through learning a few shapes. They like to repeat words "con diao" (individually when we go around in a circle). After we got though my planned lesson we still had a half hour left. We filled it by singing songs -- everything we have taught them so far (they now love the hokey pokey) and they taught me a song with the days of the week and something about a large elephant and a small chicken. Then I was thinking, um...now what? Ok, "wat pop" (draw a picture). Today was letter "L" for lion. A success. Now, if only I could learn the Thai equivalent of everything I teach them...
Diaryland
Bangkok, Thailand. For 40 baht per hour I'm slouching into an Internet cafe chair as kids stare at my multiple infection of insect bites. This is my first post. I'm trying out a weblog type setup using the free DiaryLand service. The idea is that this will be easier for me to add news updates. Eventually, when I return to home base, I hope to link these entries to my personal webpage. In the near future I will be reporting from a gaming Internet cafe within a shared corner garage of a diesel engine repair shop in Chum Phae.