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15 April 2007

Gemini

I don’t ever rely on horoscopes to direct my thinking, but my horoscope today (from online MSN as I was checking the news) fits my life to a T right now: Gemini: “Boy, your life seems seriously out of balance, doesn’t it dear Gemini? Today provides an opportunity to rethink what is truly important to you. Try considering exercise as a priority in improving your health and managing your stress level. Once you get started with a healthy regimen you will see how it helps you gain a new perspective. It is likely that the cause of all this stress can be eliminated when viewed through a different lens.”
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04 April 2007

Krabi Break to Break my Crabby Mood

So, a bit about our recent jaunt down to Krabi town in Southern Thailand. I did indeed come back with a terrific sunburn. Yes, I plastered on the sun block each and every time after getting out of the water, but it didn’t do a thing. I don’t know if the stuff was old (but newly purchased) or doesn’t have the strength we are used to because the Thais start out with naturally dark skin and don’t burn.

The planning for this was all last minute, my guidebook out of date, and the hotel/spa choices on the internet overwhelming. So, we decided to find a hotel once we arrived and hoped they weren’t booked solid. We flew into Krabi town, but it simply acts as a jumping off point for tours and other beach locations. Pom had fun on his first Commercial air flight on Nok (bird in Thai) Air, though for some reason he was shy about using the toilet in flight. On our return after delay due to a heavy rainstorm, we hit perfect timing and saw an incredible sunset and then the lights of BKK at night.

Anyway, so the range of accommodations in the area ranges from rock-bottom windowless rooms to 5 star resort spas with private villas and beaches. On the recommendation of a tour guide we took a Songtaew bus (back of a pickup) to Ao Nang beach and looked for a room there. I was a bit shocked at the high prices, and after spending about two hours walking from hotel to hotel and seeing some shabby rooms at some places, all in the same price range, I settled on a mid-range hotel for $60/night (disgustingly expensive in Pom’s view, but I wanted a relaxing atmosphere and a good shower): Alis Hotel

Even the 5 star resorts are not horrendously expensive in Western terms. You could book yourself a fancy suite or villa with private Jacuzzi and free use of kayaks, snorkeling gear, ATV’s, etc. for $250/night on a private white sand beach.

You could probably use about a week to exhaust the possibilities in and around Krabi, but after my sunburn (luckily on our last full day), I was tired and hot and ready to leave. All of the tour agencies and vendors sell the same basic itineraries and trinkets so prices are kept competitive. The choices range from longtail boat trips to nearby beaches, islands, or a longer larger boat trip to Phi Phi island (the one thing we wish we had time to explore). Lots of horseback/elephant riding and kayak options to tour the mangroves. We decided not to sign up for an all day kayak tour because we had limited time to explore on our own.

I expected the beaches to be claustrophobically crowded, but it was just the opposite. The town, in fact, was a bit depressingly quiet at night. Pom had difficulty finding a good bar with music for a drink. It was the high tourist season, but the shopkeepers lamented they are still seeing low numbers after the Tsunami.

Our first full day we spent exploring the fancy resorts along Ao Nang and the massage huts along the beach. We both got a 2 hour Thai massage ($5/hour!) on the beach, the combination of sea air, sheer limestone cliffs, pure white sand, and emerald waters perfectly calming despite the masseuse chattering away.

The next day we woke early and hailed a longtail boat to tour four surrounding islands. Our first stop was Poda, but when we disembarked the driver informed us this would be the only stop. He refused to tour other areas and the ticket booth where we bought the tickets on the mainland even lied to Pom about the trip. But, there was nothing we could do about it and were “stuck” for 5 hours on Poda. Turns out the beach never got close to being crowded (even when more boat tours arrived later in the day) and there are basic bungalows available for rent on the island for $25/night with a beachfront view (if we only knew before we booked our expensive “boutique hotel.”). The catch? The island was underwater after the Tsunami and is a RED HAZARD ZONE. Regardless, we found plenty to explore on the island. Most tourists were over 30 (all farang) and stayed close to where the boats docked. We walked around to the other size of island and had a stretch to ourselves for a chunk of time. Perfect white sand. Yes, I went swimming (in a bikini even)! That’s what got me cooked like chicken in the microwave. I am really red and painful and slathering on the aloe vera. Pom tried some snorkeling, but said the area was damaged and he only saw a few fish and sea urchins.

A couple of pictures are posted here: Krabi Vacation

 

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